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We happened to read about a self drive tour, featuring wine and food, of 8 boutique Texas wineries, for the 4th of July weekend. We had nothing special planned, so off we went. It was the second annual Picnic Road Trip, sponsored by Way Out Wineries, a group of eight Texas wineries that host tours throughout the year. We plotted a route that would take us to Granbury and work west to Abilene for the night, continuing south to Lampasas, then up to Meridian and home to Cedar Hill.
Along the way we saw many fireworks stands, getting more crowded with customers as the day wore on and people became more and more eager to celebrate the 4th. It was interesting noting the numerous and varied ranch gates we passed, ranging from rusty iron drooping on tired hinges to magnificent stone sentinels welcoming passersby. South of Abilene was obviously goat country, dominated by white goats with dark brown heads.
Our favorite winery was also the closest to Dallas: the Barking Rocks Winery in Granbury. Tiberia is the personable proprietor and the winemaker. He did the best job of explaining his wines, the grapes, and the differences among them.Tiberia grew up in Italy surrounded by winemaking but didn’t start commercially until he took a severance package from a corporate career. His expertise definitely shows in the quality of his wines. They were delicious! His small building is complemented by a garden featuring native plants. I noticed Texas Bird of Paradise, lantana, Texas sage, and some very pretty angel’s trumpet.
Many of the winemakers we met were either retired or making wine as a sideline and commuting to the vineyards on weekends from places like Dallas and Austin. Some of them grow their own grapes and buy more as needed from other growers. Others prefer to concentrate on the wine making and enlist farmers to grow the grapes for them. We were surprised to learn that Texas is the 5th largest wine producing state in the nation.
On the way to Bluff Dale Vineyards we passed through Tofar, one of the many almost deserted but well preserved small towns of Texas which used to be a center for cotton farming.
Wide steps of railroad ties welcome you to the porch and tasting room of Bluff Dale Vineyards. We were intrigued by their unusual Cabernet Sauvignon with its hints of rhubarb and cinnamon. It tasted good even to a white wine drinker.
Brennan Vineyards in Comanche had the most impressive property, rivaling many in Napa Valley, California. In fact this tour made us think that Texas is like Napa thirty years ago – with the same potential to become a significant wine producing region. Grapes, we were told, love the hot, dry Texas climate and would be a perfect crop for our farmers to embrace.
Our last stop on the first day of the tour was Rising Star Vineyards with its affable host and winemaker Michael Oubre. Unfortunately, our car’s navigation system took us there by the shortest route it found – including 5 miles of dirt road which my husband’s new black car did not appreciate!
Alamosa Wine Cellars in Bend, TX offers gifts and gourmet food as well as wine. I couldn’t resist a peach, pecan, and amaretto marmalade. Their tasting room is highlighted by a large fireplace constructed from local San Saba sandstone, and is complemented by a spacious veranda outside.
Pillar Bluffs Vineyards is just 70 minutes northwest of Austin in Lampasas, TX. Their most interesting story told of a coddled, sickly, premature baby in the family whose father was aghast to learn that the cranapple juice which finally made the infant sleep well –turned out to be a new wine that was sampled the next day! This vineyard features a large pavilion for dinners and parties.
Texas Legato Winery is just around the corner from Pillar Bluffs and is operated by a friendly and talkative family. Their label shows a large chateau they hope to build on the property.
The winemaker at the Red Caboose Winery in Meridian is by far the youngest of them all, very knowledgeable and very engaging. Evan told us that he and his father, an architect, planned to design and build a house on their property, which started as their deer lease, but started growing a few grapes. Evan took courses on grape growing and wine making at Texas Tech. Before they knew it, they had a large wine cellar and tasting room, but no house. Their property contains the most grapevines we saw on the tour. Evan explained that the best wines are low PH, acidic not alkaline. Since Texas soil is very alkaline, he collects rainwater with which he soaks the grapevines before harvest to lower their PH.
We arrived home by dinner time the second day, tired but replete and happy to know that Texas is producing many impressive wines. You won’t find them in the chain stores; their volume is not yet sufficient for major outlets. But if you seek them out, you won’t be disappointed. Texas wineries need our support to reach their potential and to help Texas become the country’s next wine destination.
